Niles Audio Home Theater System HDLCR User Manual

I N S T A L L A T I O N G U I D E  
FOR USE IN MULTI-CHANNEL MUSIC OR HOME THEATER SYSTEMS  
HIGH DEFINITION, LEFT/CENTER/RIGHT CHANNEL, IN-WALL LOUDSPEAKER  
HDLCR  
 
INTRODUCTION  
The Niles HDLCR High-Definition, Left/Center/Right Channel, In-Wall Loudspeaker is expressly  
designed for superior sonic quality in front-, center-, or rear-channel applications. It employs  
advanced technology components that extract the subtle nuances in recorded music or the thun-  
derous action sound in a movie. The HDLCR is the perfect choice wherever quality of sound is the  
most important consideration.  
FEATURES AND BENEFITS  
INJECTION-MOLDED TCC WOOFERS WITH BUTYL-  
RUBBER SURROUND, LONG-THROW VOICE COIL/  
MAGNET STRUCTURE, AND VENTED POLE PIECE  
The HDLCR features newly-developed woofer-cone material that combines injection-molded  
polypropylene with talc, carbon, and ceramic (TCC) stiffening agents. As a result, the cone offers  
extreme stiffness and light weight for accurate, dynamic response. A long-throw voice coil/magnet  
structure ensures increased cone excursion to enhance low frequency response and dynamic  
impact. Additionally, each woofer employs a vented pole piece for increased bass linearity and a  
butyl-rubber surround for improved midrange damping and clarity as well as moisture resistance.  
1-INCH TETERON TRI-LAMINATE TWEETER HOUSED IN A  
PRECISION ADJUSTMENT MECHANISM  
The HDLCR’s Teteron Tweeter employs a tri-laminate design consisting of an inner textile layer,  
which forms the dome, a high damping layer to kill unwanted resonances, and an outside layer of  
urethane to add stiffness and prevent breakup modes. The result is a transparently clear, sweet,  
natural-sounding tweeter, which still maintains extended frequency response. This advanced  
tweeter is housed in a precision adjustment mechanism, which permits the tweeter to be ac-  
curately positioned after installation for optimum performance and without the diffraction distortion  
typical of traditional pivoting tweeters.  
DIRECTED SOUND FIELD GEOMETRY™ (DSFG) DELIVERS  
OPTIMUM PHASE RESPONSE TO LISTENERS AND COM-  
PENSATES FOR HIGH SPEAKER PLACEMENT  
The HDLCR employs Niles’ Directed Sound Field Geometry (DSFG). With DSFG, the tweeter is offset  
from the center of the dual woofers. The resulting acoustic interaction between the woofers and  
the offset tweeter results in the flattest frequency and phase response, approximately 15-degrees  
off-axis from the tweeter. This gives optimum performance to a seated listener, even if the loud-  
speaker is mounted above a built-in TV.  
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NILESS AUDIIO CORPORATTION 1-80000-BUY-HIFI  
 
INSTALLER-SELECTABLE ACOUSTIC FINE TUNING  
Using the baffle-mounted TREBLE and BASS CUT controls, the installer can de-emphasize the bass and/  
or treble response by 3 dB after installing the HDLCR to precisely tone match the sound in any room.  
CTR L/R MODE SWITCH  
The HDLCR includes a baffle-mounted CTR L/R mode switch to optimize performance in applications  
as either a center channel or left/right loudspeaker for front-channel use.  
EASY RETROFIT INSTALLATION IN YOUR EXISTING HOME  
Designed for ease of installation, the Niles mounting system makes retrofit installations simple and  
fast. A supplied template assures fast and accurate hole cutting. The bracket slips behind the drywall  
and the screws secure the bracket to the frame, sandwiching the drywall between them. The speaker  
baffle attaches to the frame, and the grille mounts over the speaker.  
THREE-STAGE INSTALLATION SYSTEM FOR REMODELS OR  
NEW CONSTRUCTION  
Only the parts needed are installed during a particular stage of construction. After framing and wiring  
are finished, the bracket is installed. After the drywall is up, but before the painter begins to paint, the  
frame is installed, and the rustproof aluminum grille is left for the painter to match to the surround-  
ings. The speaker is installed only when construction is completely finished. Masking or prepping the  
speaker for painting and worries about speaker theft during final construction are never an issue!  
MICROPERF™ ALUMINUM GRILLES  
Niles’ exclusive MicroPerf™ grille construction provides an exceptionally tight hole pattern for  
acoustic transparency at all audio frequencies and enables the speaker elements to remain invisible.  
MicroPerf aluminum grilles can also be painted to blend seamlessly with the surrounding decor.  
Additionally, the aluminum grille material will never rust or discolor over time.  
INFRARED SENSOR MOUNT  
The speaker baffle has a locator designed for the Niles MS-100 MicroSensor®, a miniature infrared  
sensor. The MS-100 installs discreetly behind the aluminum grille to minimize wall clutter in the home.  
To control the equipment, the listener simply points the remote control at the speaker from up to  
15 feet away.  
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NILES’ HD HIGH-DEFINITION VOICE MATCHING  
Ensures compatibility with other Niles HD High-Definition in-wall, on-wall, and ceiling-mount  
models to accommodate a wide range of system designs.  
DOLBY® DIGITAL READY  
The HDLCR is specifically designed for Home Theater Sound. This model exceeds the specifications  
set forth by Dolby Laboratories for the accurate reproduction of Dolby Digital-Encoded Sources.  
INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS  
Figure 1. Mounting an HDLCR  
loudspeaker into an wall.  
Bracket  
New Construction Wings  
Frame  
Speaker Baffle  
IR Sensor Knockout  
Grille  
Acoustic Fine  
Tuning Controls  
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI  
 
TOOLS AND PRECAUTIONS  
We recommend using the following tools to install a HDLCR loudspeaker:  
• Electric drill with 1/4- and 1/2-inch drill bits, and a 1-inch flat drill bit  
(for drilling through studs)  
• Keyhole or drywall saw  
• Stiff wire, fish tape, or glow rods (for routing cables)  
• Phillips screwdriver set  
• Cable ties  
• Pencil  
• Level  
• Rubber gloves and protective eyewear  
Before starting the installation, please observe the following precautions:  
• Turn off all system power before making any connections.  
• Always wear protective eyewear when using tools.  
• Make sure hands are clean before installation.  
• Wear gloves when working with fiberglass insulation.  
RECOMMENDED AMPLIFIER POWER  
For satisfactory performance, we recommend using a surround amplifier with a power rating of  
10 to 125 watts. Curiously, most loudspeakers are not damaged by large amplifiers, but rather  
by small amplifiers. If your system is playing loud music, a small amplifier will run out of power  
very quickly and can create damaging “clipping” distortions. A more powerful amplifier will play at  
the same volume without distorting. See OPERATION on page 22 for more information about  
amplifier clipping distortion.  
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LOUDSPEAKER WIRE  
Use 2-conductor loudspeaker wire when connecting loudspeakers to your receiver or amplifier.  
For most applications, we recommend using 16- or 18-gauge wire. For wiring runs longer than 80  
feet, we recommend 14-gauge wire. The spring-loaded terminals of the HDLCR will accommodate  
up to 12-gauge wire directly. Larger sizes can be accommodated via pin connectors.  
When running wire inside walls or ceilings, use special jacketed cable (CL-2 or CL-3) to protect the  
wire and for fire prevention. In some areas, conduit is also required. For a trouble-free installation,  
low-voltage wire such as speaker wire must be run in accordance with the National Electrical Code  
and any applicable provisions of the local building code. If you are unsure of the correct installa-  
tion techniques, wire jacket, or type of conduit to use, consult a professional audio/video installer,  
building contractor, or the local building and inspection department.  
INCORPORATING A REMOTE CONTROL  
If you are planning to use a stereo system with a hand-held IR remote control, consider the advan-  
tages of having a Niles IR Repeater system installed. It will allow you to control all of the functions  
of your system from the room with the remote pair of speakers.  
Niles makes a number of IR sensors, which install in the wall, in the ceiling, in cabinetry, on  
tabletops, or even behind the grille of your Niles HDLCR speaker. An IR sensor requires that a CAT5  
cable be home run from each sensor location to the main equipment location. This wire is normally  
run beside the speaker wire at the same time. Typically, the sensor is placed in a location that  
faces the listening position.  
Most remote controls will have an effective line-of-sight range of 18 to 30 feet when used with  
any Niles sensor placed in a wall, ceiling, on a cabinet or tabletop. However, when a Niles  
MS-100 MicroSensor® is used behind the HDLCR’s perforated aluminum grille, the effective range  
is reduced to 9 to 15 feet.  
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI  
 
INSULATING THE WALL CAVITY  
For best performance from your speakers, fill the wall cavity behind the speaker with fiberglass  
insulation (e.g., R-19 un-batted insulation). Try to keep the same amount of insulation for each  
speaker, particularly in the same room, for consistent bass response.  
TECH TIP  
Wire size is expressed by its AWG (American  
Wire Gauge) number – the lower the number,  
the larger the wire. For example, 12 AWG is  
physically larger than 14 AWG.  
SPEAKER PLACEMENT  
NOTE: THE NILES HDLCR LOUDSPEAKER IS DESIGNED FOR USE IN FRONT LEFT-, CENTER-, OR FRONT  
RIGHT-CHANNEL APPLICATIONS ONLY. FOR REAR-CHANNEL APPLICATIONS, WE RECOMMEND USING A  
NILES HDFX OR CM6HDFX LOUDSPEAKER.  
PLACING THE HDLCR AS THE FRONT LEFT AND RIGHT  
SPEAKERS  
In a home theater, the intelligibility of dialog and action reproduced by the front speakers is  
paramount! The position of the speakers plays a very important role in how clear the sound is  
and how a stereo image is created. Here are some guidelines to make the process of placement  
quick and easy:  
• Make sure the sound will not be blocked or reflected off furniture or other objects. The  
listener should have a direct line of sight with the front of the speaker. To determine  
the best position, measure the “listening” distance between the ideal listening position  
(e.g., favorite chair or couch) and the wall in which you plan to install the speakers.  
• For stereo music applications, try to place the speakers so that they are equally distant  
from the listening spot and at least one half of the listening distance apart to maintain  
a large pleasant stereo “image.”  
• In home theater applications where there is a center channel, you may choose to  
space the left and right main speakers farther apart for a “bigger than life” sound with  
Dolby® encoded movies and TV shows. However, for combined music and movie usage,  
we recommend using the placement zone for stereo music. Ideally, if the listening  
position is 10 feet back from the wall, place the speakers between 5 and 10 feet apart,  
as shown in Figure 2.  
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Speaker  
Placement  
Zone  
5'  
10'  
10'  
Speaker  
Placement  
Zone  
Figure 2. Recommended HDLCR loudspeaker  
placement for front left and right channels.  
As for placement height, place front left and right speakers on either side of the picture source  
so that their tweeters are not more than 24 inches above or below the center-channel speaker’s  
tweeter (see Figure 3 on page 8).  
NOTE: DO NOT PLACE AN HDLCR SPEAKER TOO CLOSE TO A DIRECT-VIEW TV MONITOR, AS IT MAY  
CAUSE PICTURE DISCOLORATION. IN GENERAL, TRY TO KEEP IT AT LEAST 24 INCHES AWAY FROM THE  
TV. WITH LARGER CRT SCREEN SIZES, TEST THE PLACEMENT DISTANCE FOR PICTURE DEGRADATION  
BEFORE INSTALLATION.  
THE BOUNDARY EFFECT  
Placing a speaker in a corner can powerfully affect the way a listener perceives bass response.  
Known as the boundary effect, placing speakers close to a wall/ceiling boundary or near a corner-  
wall boundary will emphasize certain bass frequencies, while canceling others. This effect can  
make the speaker sound excessively boomy and inaccurate to some listeners, while to others it  
just seems like more bass sound.  
As a good rule-of-thumb, if you like listening to your current pair of speakers with the bass turned  
up, you’ll enjoy corner placement. However, if you listen with the tone controls at neutral, try keep-  
ing the speakers at least 2 or 3 feet from the boundaries of the room.  
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PLACING AN HDLCR AS THE CENTER-CHANNEL SPEAKER  
The center-channel speaker is the workhorse in a home theater system. It handles all of the critical  
dialog and is vitally important in creating the illusion of sounds emanating directly from the picture.  
Here are some tips for obtaining optimum center-channel performance:  
• In a typical installation, place the HDLCR horizontally, directly above the television or  
projection screen. Try to insure that the speaker is not placed too high relative to the  
left and right speaker, as shown in Figure 3.  
HDLCR  
Not Greater  
than 24"  
TV  
Not Greater  
than 24"  
HDLCR  
HDLCR  
HDLCR  
Figure 3. If the HDLCR is placed above a TV, install the speaker with the tweeter up. If it is  
placed below a TV, install the HDLCR with the tweeter down.  
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• For installations where a perforated projection screen will be used, place the HDLCR,  
either horizontally or vertically, behind the screen at ear level, as shown in Figure 4.  
Perforated Screen  
HDLCR  
HDLCR  
HDLCR  
Figure 4. Recommended HDLCR center-channel placement behind a perforated  
projection screen.  
INSTALLATION FUNDAMENTALS  
RUNNING THE SPEAKER WIRE IN NEW CONSTRUCTION  
IMPORTANT: IF YOU HAVE DOUBTS ABOUT WHETHER YOU ARE CAPABLE OF INSTALLING A NILES  
CEILING-MOUNT LOUDSPEAKER, PLEASE CONSULT A NILES DEALER OR PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER.  
THEY HAVE SPECIAL TOOLS, TECHNIQUES, AND EXPERIENCE TO MAKE THE IMPOSSIBLE JOB  
POSSIBLE. THE INSTALLER CAN PROVIDE YOU WITH AN ESTIMATE BEFORE ANY WORK IS DONE.  
OBSERVE SAFETY FIRST!  
• Always wear gloves, safety goggles, and head protection gear when drilling or  
cutting holes.  
• Avoid drilling near nails – they ruin bits and can cause injury.  
• Be careful using “hole-hogs” and other powerful electric drills. The torque of this  
drill when suddenly stopped by a nail can break the wrist of a strong man.  
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RUNNING THE SPEAKER WIRE IN NEW CONSTRUCTION  
(CONTINUED)  
SCHEDULING AND PREPARATION  
Plan to schedule the speaker wiring after the electrical wiring is finished. That way you can avoid  
wire routes, which could potentially induce hum over the speaker wire. The basic wiring rules are:  
• Never run speaker wire through the same hole as an electrical cable.  
• Never run speaker wire into the same J-box as electrical cable.  
• Avoid running the speaker wire beside the electrical cable. Keep your speaker  
cable at a distance of at least 18 to 22 inches from any electrical power cable.  
• If side-by-side wiring is unavoidable in particular spots in the house, move the  
speaker wire route away as soon as possible.  
• If construction forces a side-by-side run for more than 10 feet, install metal conduit  
or shielded speaker wire. Low-voltage wires such as doorbells, intercoms, telephone,  
security, or television cannot cause interference or hum on your speaker wires, so  
you can safely run all of them at the same time, through the same holes,  
side-by-side.  
• Before drilling any holes, mount the speaker brackets in the desired speaker  
Locations and mount p-rings or open-backed J-boxes where the in-wall volume  
Controls and stereo equipment will be located.  
ABOUT DRILLING  
Use a bit that is large enough for the wires you plan to  
run. This is an important consideration, since you may  
be drilling a lot of holes. Here are some additional tips:  
• We recommend using an auger bit for rough-  
in wiring. It will actually pull itself through  
the wood, so that the drill motor, not you,  
does most of the work.  
• Always drill the holes in the center of the  
stud. If you have to notch the stud or drill the  
hole closer than 1 inch from the edge of the  
stud, protect the wire with a nail plate, as  
shown in Figure 5.  
Figure 5. Installing a nail  
plate to protect wiring in a  
notched stud.  
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• When drilling holes in ceiling joists, drill in the center of the joists and try to locate  
the hole near the end of the joist.  
IMPORTANT: DO NOT DRILL THROUGH A GLU-LAM OR LOAD-BEARING BEAM WITHOUT THE  
DIRECTION OF YOUR CONTRACTOR.  
• Try to line the holes up perfectly, because it makes pulling the wire much easier. A  
good technique is to snap a chalk line across the face of the studs or against the  
bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work backward so that you can always see the  
holes you have already drilled. Paying careful attention to this will save you time  
later on.  
PULLING THE CABLE  
Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo to the volume control, from the volume control to the  
speaker). Start with the longest sections and use leftover wire to complete the short sections. Also  
consider the following wiring tips:  
• If you plan to pull many rooms at the same time through a central route, walk off the  
Distance to each destination, add a generous “fudge factor” for turns and other  
Obstacles, and then cut off each section, so you can pull a bundle of wires at once.  
• When running the wire further than 4-1/2 feet from a hole in a stud or joist (e.g., open  
attic space, going up walls, etc.), be sure to fasten the wire to the joists or studs using  
cable clamps or appropriately-sized wire staples. The wire should not have large sags  
in it, nor should it be too tight.  
• Try to protect the wire from being stepped on in attics or other unfinished crawl  
spaces. Use guard strips, raceways, or conduits to protect the cable. Consult the local  
building code for special requirements in your area.  
CONCEALING SPEAKER WIRE  
ABOUT INTERIOR WALLS  
Interior walls in almost all North American residences are hollow, so they are easy installation sites  
for flush mounting speakers and routing new speaker cable in the house. Looking at a painted  
wallboard, plaster, or paneling, you only see the skin of the wall. Behind it is the home’s skeleton;  
2-by-4 inch wood or metal “studs” running vertically from the floor to the ceiling in walls and  
2-by-6 inch or larger “joists” running horizontally in the ceilings and floors. The space between the  
studs and joists is used for the home’s wiring and plumbing.  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
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CONCEALING SPEAKER WIRE (CONTINUED)  
ABOUT EXTERIOR WALLS  
Concealing wires in exterior walls is more complex, since the walls are stuffed with insulation to  
protect the house from the heat and cold outside. Moreover, our national building code requires  
that a horizontal stud placed between the vertical studs break the hollow wall space in exterior  
walls. This “fire blocking” makes it very difficult to retrofit long lengths of wire. In some areas  
of the country, the exterior walls are constructed of solid masonry and have no hollow space for  
speakers or wires.  
PLANNING THE SPEAKER WIRE ROUTE  
Start by examining all the possible routes you might take to run the speaker wire from the speaker  
to the home theater system. Use a stud sensor or other device to locate the internal structure of the  
wall. You will want to avoid all studs or joists. Figure 6 shows a typical wire run from the speaker  
location in the ceiling, across the attic, then down through a top plate (i.e., the horizontal 2-by-4  
or 2-by-6 inch wood laid across the vertical studs) to a wall plate or a J-Box in the wall behind the  
home theater system itself.  
Figure 6. Running  
speaker wire from a  
ceiling speaker to a home  
theater system location.  
Speaker  
Location  
Find all the locations of your exist-  
Volume  
Control  
Location  
ing electrical, phone, and TV wir-  
ing, and then plan the speaker wire  
route to avoid them. Crossing wire  
paths is acceptable, but 60 Hz hum  
may be induced in the reproduced  
audio, if speaker wire is run paral-  
lel to electrical wire for more than  
Stereo  
Location  
a few feet. If possible, try to keep speaker wire away from parallel power cables by at least 3 feet.  
To find exactly where an electrical cable is routed, try inspecting the inside of the wall by turn-  
ing off the breaker for a particular power outlet or switch, removing the cover plate and switch or  
receptacle, and then shining a penlight into the wall. If you have access to an attic or basement  
space, you can quickly see which part of the wall space is free of obstructions, as shown in Figure 7.  
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Figure 7. An example of  
unobstructed wall space for  
speaker wiring.  
When you don’t have access above or below the wall, try to estimate the existing wire and pipe  
locations from known positions of electrical outlets and plumbed fixtures on both sides of the wall.  
Take a look at the outside of your house too – sometimes conduit, vents, or drainpipe will provide  
useful visible clues. Choose the route with the fewest potential obstacles.  
If the home is built on a slab, or a speaker wire route is planned between two finished floors, look  
for baseboards that could be removed for wire placement. Doorjambs can also be removed and  
often have enough space for speaker wire all the way around the door, as shown in Figure 8.  
Figure 8. Running speaker wire  
between a wall and a removed  
doorjamb. Nail plates are also  
installed to protect the wire when  
the doorjamb is replaced.  
OTHER POSSIBLE SPEAKER WIRE ROUTES INCLUDE:  
• Under-the-carpet runs using flat speaker wires.  
• Heating and air conditioning vents used as wire raceways for plenum-rated wire.  
NOTE: CHECK YOUR LOCAL BUILDING CODES, SINCE SOME MUNICIPALITIES REQUIRE CONDUIT.  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
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CONCEALING SPEAKER WIRE (CONTINUED)  
CUTTING HOLES  
In traditional wood stud/drywall construc-  
tion, first cut the hole for the speaker.  
Then, in the opening, use a drill with a  
long bit to auger a wire route up or down  
the wall. Next, cut a hole in the drywall for  
stud access, drill holes through the studs,  
and run your wire, as shown in Figure 9.  
After the wire has been run, patch the hole  
with the cut drywall using standard dry-  
wall joint tape and joint compound. Let the  
patch dry, sand the surface, and touch-up  
the wall with paint.  
Figure 9. Example of a  
wall speaker cutout with  
studs drilled for wire run.  
NOTE: BE PATIENT WITH UNKNOWN  
STRUCTURES OR DIFFICULT-TO-PATCH  
WALL MATERIALS LIKE PLASTER, LATH  
AND PLASTER, FAUX FINISHES, WALLPAPER  
ETC. ALWAYS PERFORM A CAREFUL STUDY  
OF THE POTENTIAL PROBLEMS BEFORE  
STARTING THE JOB.  
NEW CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET  
The hole-saving bracket enables a faster and cleaner final installation of the speaker. It forces the  
drywall installer to cut out the speaker hole for you and provides wire ties for the speaker wire,  
reducing the risks of accidental loss or movement of the wire. In addition, it enables you to align  
your speakers with other ceiling fixtures with greater accuracy, since you can see exactly where  
the speaker will be.  
INSTALLING THE BRACKET  
1. Attach the QuickSnap™ new-construction wings to the bracket by snapping them into  
the bracket sides. If the length will interfere with corner or eaves, shorten the wings by  
breaking them along the scored lines. You can mount the bracket horizontally or verti-  
cally, as shown in Figure 10.  
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4 Wire Ties  
Figure 10. The hole-saving brackets with QuickSnap new-construction wings can be installed  
horizontally or vertically.  
2. Screw one side of the assembled bracket with wings to the stud or joist, using one  
of the supplied screws. Level the bracket, and then screw the other side of the  
bracket/wing assembly to the stud or joist. Two screws on each side make for a  
very secure installation.  
3. Attach the wire to the bracket at the indicated  
wire tie points, as shown in Figure 10.  
CONCEALING SPEAKER WIRE FOR  
A FUTURE INSTALLATION  
1. Attach the speaker wire in a loop between the  
ceiling joists and carefully mark the  
exact location of the wire on a set of plans.  
Figure 11. The speaker wire  
2. Ask the general contractor to inform the drywall  
installers that the speaker wire loops are  
concealed for future installations, as shown in  
Figure 11.  
is looped and hung on two nails  
attached to the joists, securing it  
for future use. Be sure to note the  
location on house plans.  
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NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI  
 
EXISTING CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET  
IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU CUT INTO ANY WALL, REVIEW THE SECTIONS ON SPEAKER  
PLACEMENT ON PAGE 6 AND RUNNING THE SPEAKER WIRE IN NEW CONSTRUCTION ON  
PAGE 9. BE SURE NOT TO DRILL OR CUT THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE.  
IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE DRILLING OR SAWING, STOP!  
1. Locate studs or joists by using a stud sensor or by hand knocking. Do not place the  
edge of the cutout directly next to a stud or joist, since the frame and bracket will  
extend beyond the cutout.  
2. At the planned cutout site, drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole just barely through the wall, about  
an inch below the center of your proposed speaker location.  
NOTE: IN MOST HOMES, THE WALL THICKNESS IS 1/2 TO 5/8 INCH.  
3. Cut a foot-long piece of coat hanger and bend it to create a right angle. Poke the  
“L-shaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn it in a  
complete circle, as shown in Figure 12.  
4. Continue turning the coat hanger as you move it  
into the cavity to a depth of approximately  
4 inches. If you feel an obstruction, fill the hole(s)  
with spackling compound and repeat steps  
1 through 4 at a new location.  
5. If the coat hanger moves freely in a complete circle,  
hold the supplied template up to the wall or ceiling  
and level it in the horizontal or vertical position. Use  
Figure 12. Using a coat  
hanger to check for obstructions  
behind the wall speaker site.  
a pencil to outline the cutout on the surface and  
then drill the four corner holes with a 1/4-inch bit  
(see Figure 13 on page 17).  
6. If you are cutting drywall, use a sheetrock or keyhole saw. Cut the outline with the saw  
at a 45-degree angle. That way, the drywall section can be replaced cleanly if there is  
an unseen obstruction behind the wall.  
7. If you are cutting into a plaster ceiling, use masking tape to outline the penciled open-  
ing and use a razor to score the plaster down to the lath beneath. Then use a chisel to  
remove all of the plaster within the taped outline. To actually cut the lath, consider the  
following two professional methods:  
• Use a saber saw with a metal cutting blade for the quickest cut. However, sawing  
lath with a saber saw can easily vibrate plaster off the ceiling in a completely distant  
location, thereby creating more patchwork.  
• If you have the patience, use a pair of tin snips to slowly nip away at the lath instead.  
There is little risk with this method – it is just more time consuming.  
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FINISHING THE INSTALLATION  
PAINTING THE GRILLE AND FRAME  
After drywall is up, each HDLCR frame and grille may be painted without the need for primer. For  
best results, use a spray gun or airless sprayer, thin the paint to prevent clogging of the grille holes,  
and apply several light coats instead of one heavy one.  
1. Paint each grille and let it dry before installation.  
2. Paint each frame and let it dry before installation.  
INSTALLING THE FRAME  
1. Fill each wall cavity with insulation. Remember to use equal amounts of insulation for  
each speaker.  
2. For existing construction, slip the mounting bracket through the hole and pull it toward  
you so that its front edge slides into the hole and stops in place.  
NOTE: FOR NEW CONSTRUCTION, THE MOUNTING BRACKET SHOULD ALREADY BE IN PLACE  
(AS DESCRIBED IN THE SECTION “NEW CONSTRUCTION: INSTALLING A BRACKET” ON PAGE 14.  
3. Attach each frame to its brack-  
et using the supplied screws, as  
shown in Figure 13. The screws  
should pull the frame and  
bracket together (sandwich-  
ing the drywall) so that the  
frame is absolutely flush  
with the wall surface.  
There should be no  
gaps between the  
wall and the frame.  
IMPORTANT: DO NOT  
OVER TIGHTEN THE  
SCREWS! OVER TIGHTENING  
THEM MAY MAKE  
THE GRILLE DIFFICULT  
TO INSTALL.  
Figure 13. Installing the  
frame into a mounting bracket.  
17  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI  
 
INSTALLING A NILES MS-100 MICROSENSOR®  
1. For each speaker, locate the half-inch round, molded “IR Sensor Knockout”  
on the baffle.  
2. Lay each speaker face down on a clean carpet or rug. Put the tip of a screwdriver  
into the center of the round “knockout” and sharply tap the screwdriver handle  
as necessary.  
NOTE: TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE CROSSOVER NETWORK, ALWAYS REMOVE A KNOCKOUT  
FROM THE REAR OF THE SPEAKER. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE A KNOCKOUT WITH THE  
SPEAKER FACE UP.  
3. At each speaker, install the MS-100 (using its mounting hex nut and washer) until it is  
tightly secured.  
4. Connect all MS-100 wires.  
SETTING THE CTR L/R MODE  
The HDLCR includes a baffle-mounted CTR L/R mode switch to optimize performance in  
applications as either a center channel or left/right loudspeaker for front-channel use, as shown  
in Figure 14.  
• For front left- or right-channel applications, slide the HDLCR’s mode switch to L/R.  
• For center-channel use, slide the HDLCR’s mode switch to CTR.  
L / R  
C T R  
Figure 14. The HDLCR’s CTR L/R mode switch.  
18  
 
CONNECTING AND INSTALLING THE SPEAKER  
1. At each speaker, separate the speaker wire so that at least 2 inches of each conductor  
are free. Strip away 1/4 inch of insulation from each speaker wire.  
2. On each set of speaker connectors, press down the spring-loaded lever, insert the ap-  
propriate conductor, and then release the lever, as shown in Figure 15. Gently tug on  
the speaker wire to make sure it is held in place. If not, repeat this procedure until it is.  
NOTE: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+) GOES INTO THE RED TERMINAL AND  
NEGATIVE (–) GOES INTO THE BLACK TERMINAL.  
Figure 15. Connecting a speaker  
wire to the HDLCR terminals.  
3. Connect the other end of each speaker wire to the receiver (or amplifier) in the same  
way. If you are unsure of wire polarity, see the next section, Checking Speaker Phase  
on page 20.  
NOTE: OBSERVE CORRECT POLARITY: POSITIVE (+) GOES INTO THE RED TERMINAL AND  
NEGATIVE (–) GOES INTO THE BLACK TERMINAL.  
4. Install the speaker baffle into its frame by inserting the tabs at the base into the cor-  
responding holes in the frame and pushing the speaker forward until the snaps engage,  
as shown in Figure 16.  
Figure 16. Installing the speaker baffle into its frame.  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
19  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI  
 
CONNECTING AND INSTALLING THE SPEAKER (CONTINUED)  
IMPORTANT: WHEN INSTALLING THE SPEAKERS IN THE CEILING, OR IF THE INSTALLATION IS  
IN AN EARTHQUAKE ZONE, WE RECOMMEND USING THE ENCLOSED SHEET METAL SCREWS TO  
SECURE THE BAFFLE TO THE FRAME AS FOLLOWS:  
a. Locate the dimples on the front baffle.  
b. Place the self-tapping sheet-metal screw in the dimple and turn it with a screw-  
driver until it cuts through the baffle and anchors securely in the frame, as shown in  
Figure 17.  
Figure 17. Inserting the speaker baffle  
into its frame with sheet-metal screws.  
5. Turn on the home theater receiver and calibrate all speakers in the system according to  
the receiver manufacturer’s instructions.  
CHECKING SPEAKER PHASE  
Speaker wire has two conductors. On both your speaker and amplifier, one conductor is attached to  
the negative (–) terminals, while the other is attached to the positive (+) terminals. Usually, the wire  
is marked for your convenience, but the marking can be done in the following different ways:  
• Stripe on one wire  
• Ribbed area you can feel on one conductor  
• Different colors of metal wire on each conductor  
• Fabric strand or string wound into one of the conductors  
Of course, there are some wires that appear completely identical. So be careful, or you might make  
a connection mistake. If you do, one speaker will be playing “out-of-phase” with the other speaker.  
A pair of out-of-phase speakers works against each other, and the sound of the two playing together  
will be lacking in bass and sound “phasey.” If you suspect the sound is not right, and you cannot see  
any markings on the wire, try this simple test:  
20  
 
1. Stand halfway between the speakers.  
2. Play some music with the amplifier or radio set to Mono.  
3. Listen to the richness of the bass and the loudness of the sound.  
4. Turn off the amplifier and reverse the connections on one amplifier channel only.  
5. Repeat the listening test with the same volume control setting. When the sound has a  
richer bass and is slightly louder, the speakers are working together or “in-phase.”  
ACOUSTIC FINE TUNING  
Each HDLCR speaker features separate, baffle-mounted TREBLE CUT and BASS CUT controls for  
acoustic fine-tuning after installation, as shown in Figure 18.  
• If a HDLCR is placed near a boundary, set its  
BASS CUT switch to – 3 dB to lower the bass  
response.  
• If a HDLCR is placed in a room with highly  
reflective surfaces like glass or tile, set its  
TREBLE CUT switch to – 3 dB to lower the  
high-frequency response.  
Figure 18. The HDLCR’s TREBLE  
and BASS CUT switches.  
ADJUSTING THE TWEETER  
The HDLCR tweeter is housed in a precision adjustment mechanism which enables precise aiming  
of the directional high frequencies to provide optimum performance. To adjust the tweeter:  
1. Carefully grasp the tweeter housing by placing your  
thumb and forefinger in the indentations provided.  
2. Rotate the tweeter housing either clockwise or coun-  
ter-clockwise as required. The mechanism is indexed  
at equal intervals so that speakers in a pair can be  
adjusted equally. Simply count the number of “clicks”  
as the first tweeter is adjusted. Repeat the process  
for the second speaker, rotating the tweeter the  
same number of “clicks” in the opposite direction, as  
Figure 19. Rotating the  
HDLCR’s tweeter.  
shown in Figure 19.  
(CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE)  
21  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI  
 
ADJUSTING THE TWEETER (CONTINUED)  
3. Pivot the tweeter on each speaker equally  
by depressing the housing at the arrows  
until the desired angle is achieved, as  
shown in Figure 20.  
INSTALLING THE GRILLE  
At each speaker, carefully fit the grille into its recess  
so that it is barely in place. Starting with one corner,  
gently press the grille around the speaker, pushing  
it in a little bit each time. Be gentle – the aluminum  
grille can be easily bent out of shape. When properly  
Figure 20. Pivoting the HDLCR’s tweeter.  
installed, the grille will be absolutely flush in  
appearance with the surrounding frame.  
OPERATION  
LISTENING AT HIGHER VOLUMES  
Achieving a reasonable volume of sound in a large room requires more amplifier power than it does  
in a small room. It is possible to turn the volume up so high that the amplifier runs out of power.  
This creates “clipping” distortion, which will make treble sound very harsh and unmusical.  
When you hear harsh-sounding treble from any good speaker, turn the volume down immediately!  
Those harsh sounds are masking much more powerful ultra-high-frequency sound spikes, which  
will quickly damage any fine loudspeaker. You are much less likely to damage a speaker driven by a  
large amplifier because it will be very loud before any clipping distortion is produced.  
CLEANING  
Clean the Niles HDLCR loudspeaker with a dampened soft cloth or paper towel. If the speaker is  
mounted high up on a wall or ceiling, use a broom to gently brush it off.  
REMOVING THE GRILLE AND SPEAKER  
REMOVING THE GRILLE  
If you need to remove an installed grille, use a bent paper clip or the tip of a corkscrew to gently  
pull it away from the frame.  
22  
 
REMOVING THE SPEAKER  
After removing the grille, use two small screwdrivers (or needle-nose pliers) to release the snaps  
that hold the speaker (and baffle) to the frame. Insert the screwdrivers into the holes in the snaps  
and exert force straight down (towards the woofer) until the snaps release, as shown in Figure 21.  
I
F
I
-
H
3
4
m
o
.c  
Y
4
4
U
-
B
9
io  
-
2
8
u
d
0
-
0
0
sa  
i
0
e
l
-8  
1
-
8
.
n
1
w
w
w
1
-
8
0
w
w
1
-
0
8
w
0
-
0
B
U
.
n
-
il  
2
8
es  
Y
9
-
H
a
-
u
4
di  
4
I
F
o
3
I
.
4
c
o
m
Figure 21. Removing the HDLCR speaker baffle from its frame.  
Once the snaps release, the speaker can be tilted away from the frame to be removed.  
NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE FRAME FOR LEVERAGE, AS THIS MAY DAMAGE THE SURFACE OF  
THE FRAME.  
SPECIFICATIONS  
Recommended Amplifier Power  
10 to 150 watts per channel  
Nominal Impedance  
4 ohms  
Frequency Response  
65 Hz to 21 kHz, +/- 3 dB  
Sensitivity  
89 dB with 2.83 V pink noise input,  
measured at 1 meter on axis  
Frame Dimensions  
8-1/4" x 14-1/2"  
Hole Cut-Out Dimensions  
7-1/8" x 13-1/4"  
Depth Behind Wall  
3-1/2" (based on 1/2" drywall)  
Wiring Requirements  
We recommend using 16- to 18-gauge speaker wire for runs up to 80 feet and  
14-gauge speaker wire for runs up to 200 feet. The connectors will accommodate  
12- to 22-gauge wire.  
23  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION – 1-800-BUY-HIFI  
 
LIMITED WARRANTY  
NILESAUDIOCORPORATION(“NILES”)WARRANTSITSLOUDSPEAKERPRODUCTSTOTHEORIGINALPURCHASERTO  
BE FREE OF MANUFACTURING DEFECTS IN MATERIAL AND WORKMANSHIP FOR A PERIOD OF FIVE YEARS FROM  
DATE OF PURCHASE.  
THIS WARRANTY IS SUBJECT TO THE FOLLOWING ADDITIONAL CONDITIONS AND LIMITATIONS. THE WARRANTY  
IS VOID AND INAPPLICABLE IF NILES DEEMS THAT THE PRODUCT HAS BEEN USED OR HANDLED OTHER THAN IN  
ACCORDANCE WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS PROVIDED BY THE MANUFACTURER, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO  
DAMAGE CAUSED BY ACCIDENT, MISHANDLING, IMPROPER INSTALLATION, ABUSE, NEGLIGENCE, OR NORMAL  
WEAR AND TEAR, OR ANY DEFECT CAUSED BY REPAIR TO THE PRODUCT BY ANYONE OTHER THAN NILES OR AN  
AUTHORIZED NILES DEALER.  
TO OBTAIN WARRANTY SERVICE, TAKE THE UNIT TO THE NEAREST AUTHORIZED NILES DEALER, WHO WILL  
TEST THE PRODUCT AND IF NECESSARY, FORWARD IT TO NILES FOR SERVICE. IF THERE ARE NO AUTHORIZED  
NILES DEALERS IN YOUR AREA, YOU MUST WRITE TO NILES AND INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, MODEL AND  
SERIAL NUMBER OF YOUR UNIT, ALONG WITH A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROBLEM. A FACTORY RETURN  
AUTHORIZATION NUMBER WILL BE SENT TO YOU. DO NOT RETURN ANY UNIT WITHOUT FIRST RECEIVING WRITTEN  
AUTHORIZATION AND SHIPPING INSTRUCTIONS FROM NILES.  
IF THE ABOVE CONDITIONS ARE MET, THE PURCHASER’S SOLE REMEDY SHALL BE TO RETURN THE PRODUCT TO  
NILES, IN WHICH CASE NILES WILL REPAIR OR REPLACE, AT ITS SOLE OPTION, THE DEFECTIVE PRODUCT WITHOUT  
CHARGE FOR PARTS OR LABOR. NILES WILL RETURN A UNIT REPAIRED OR REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY BY  
SHIPPING SAME BY ITS USUAL SHIPPING METHOD FROM THE FACTORY (ONLY) AT ITS EXPENSE WITHIN THE  
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. THERE ARE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION, EITHER  
EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, WITH  
RESPECT TO THE PRODUCT.  
REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT AS PROVIDED UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY OF THE CONSUMER/  
PURCHASER. NILES SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES EXCEPT TO  
THE EXTENT PROVIDED (OR PROHIBITED) BY APPLICABLE LAW.  
SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES,  
SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. THIS WARRANTY GIVES YOU SPECIFIC LEGAL RIGHTS, AND  
YOU MAY ALSO HAVE OTHER RIGHTS WHICH VARY FROM STATE TO STATE.  
FOR THE NAME OF YOUR NEAREST AUTHORIZED NILES DEALER CONTACT:  
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION, P.O. BOX 160818, MIAMI, FLORIDA 33116-0818.  
Please fill in your product information and retain for your records.  
Model______________________Serial No.___________________ Purchase Date_______  
24  
 
WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD  
Model Purchased_________________________________________________________  
Serial Number___________________________________________________________  
Date Purchased (month/day/year)_____________________________________________  
Dealer Name and Location__________________________________________________  
______________________________________________________________________  
Dr.  
Miss  
Mr.  
Mrs.  
Ms.  
Name__________________________________________________________________  
Address__________________________________________________________________  
____________________________________________________________________  
City_______________________________________State________________Zip______  
Telephone (  
)__________________________________________________  
Please take a moment to fill out our warranty registration card. The information helps us to get to  
know you better and develop the products you want  
Age:  
Musical tastes:  
(Please check  
all that apply)  
What magazines  
do you read?  
Do you . . . ?  
Under 25  
Own a House. If yes,  
25-34  
1. ________________  
how many square feet?  
35-44  
Alternative  
2. ________________  
3. ________________  
45-54  
55 & over  
Classical  
Country  
Own a Town House/  
Jazz  
Condominium/Co-op  
Income:  
New Age  
Rent an Apartment  
Rent a House  
Who will install  
the product?  
Under $24,999  
Popular  
$25,000-$34,999  
$35,000-$44,999  
$45,000-$59,999  
$60,000-$74,999  
$75,000-$99,999  
Over $99,999  
R&B  
Custom Installer  
Rock  
Are you interested in  
receiving literature on  
other Niles products?  
Electrician  
Other _____________  
Friend  
Myself  
How did you hear  
about Niles?  
Yes  
No  
Which factor(s) influenced  
the purchase of your Niles  
product? (Please check  
all that apply)  
Architect/Developer  
Are there products/  
capabilities that you would  
like to see introduced?  
Occupation:  
Custom Installer  
Arts/Entertainment  
Direct Mail  
Business Owner  
Friend/Family  
Ease of Use  
Engineer  
In-Store Display  
Price/Value  
Finance/Accounting  
Interior Designer  
Product Features  
General Office  
Magazine Ad  
Quality/Durability  
Management  
Mail-Order Catalog  
Reputation  
Professional  
Newspaper Ad  
Style/Appearance  
Sales/Marketing  
Product Brochure  
Warranty  
Student  
Product Review  
Tradesperson  
Retail Salesperson  
 
®
BL E N D I N G HI G H FI D E L I T Y AN D AR C H I T E C T U R E  
N i l e s A u d i o C o r p o r a t i o n  
1 2 3 3 1 S . W . 1 3 0 S t r e e t M i a m i , F l o r i d a 3 3 1 8 6  
D e s i g n e d a n d E n g i n e e r e d i n U S A  
M a d e i n C h i n a  
©2005 Niles Audio Corporation. All rights reserved. Niles, the Niles logos and Blending High Fidelity and  
Architecture are registered trademarks of Niles Audio Corporation. All other trademarks are the property of their  
respective owners. Printed in China. 04/05 DS00417ACN  
 

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